🍽️ Edinburgh Food Guide: Best Places and Things to Eat
When most people think of Scotland, food doesn't come to mind as a highlight. It's bagpipes, kilts, castles, and haggis that are synonymous with Scotland. However, after multiple trips, it has grown into one of my top food destinations in the world. Here are a few of my 'top eats' in Edinburgh.
Scottish Seafood: Fresh and Local
Seafood Platter, Ship on the Shore, Edinburgh, Scotland
The cold waters surrounding Scotland produce some of the best seafood in the world. Inland, trout and salmon still run plentifully in the rivers from the icy cold lochs. The quality of seafood is excellent, and these are just a few of my favorites:
Langoustines: Similar to crayfish but larger—a cold, ocean-dwelling variety that is a wonderful cross between a shrimp and a lobster.
Bivalves: Oysters and mussels are plentiful around Scotland and are, in my opinion, some of the best in the world due to the cold water.
Fish: The cold-smoked salmon and haddock are delicious. Haddock is the preferred choice for fish and chips, and the salmon is consistently excellent.
The best seafood can be found in restaurants all over the city, but my two favorites are:
Ship on the Shore: A staple for any Edinburgh visit, featuring both cold and hot seafood platters brimming with the best catches. The fish pie is a favorite!
Ondine: Slightly more upscale, featuring excellent, sophisticated preparations of the best fish and shellfish from around Scotland.
Scottish Meats: Opt for the Venison and Lamb
As an American, I am used to the wide variety and specific cuts available at our great steakhouses. We are spoiled when it comes to beef in America. In Scotland, I rarely eat beef because I find it expensive and it never quite tastes the way I prefer. This difference may be due to the different cattle breeds, the land they graze, or the finishing process used to fatten them up.
However, I highly recommend the venison available in Scotland, which I don't typically eat in America. Scottish venison has almost no 'gamey' taste and is deliciously tender and juicy. I am told this is because the deer are farmed and fed specific grains to develop the flavor. Lastly, while I'm generally not a big lamb fan, I find the Scottish lamb also tastier and more enjoyable here.
For the perfect preparation of meat and seafood in Edinburgh, I would recommend two fine dining establishments:
Martin Wishart: Features elegant, modern French cuisine refined with seasonal Scottish ingredients, located on the historic Leith waterfront.
The Kitchin: A restaurant that celebrates the "From Nature to Plate" philosophy, blending the finest Scottish seasonal produce with Tom Kitchin's classical French techniques.
Both are Michelin-rated and offer the extraordinary level of service you would expect. Their preparation of meat and seafood is well-executed—not overly sauced or fussy. Both restaurants prepare wonderfully tasting dishes that start with truly great, high-quality ingredients.
The Essential Scottish Breakfast Experience
The Scottish Breakfast is quite a plateful and typically includes: eggs, bacon, baked beans, haggis (calf or sheep organs and oatmeal), blood sausage (congealed pig’s blood), and a baked tomato, served with toast and coffee or tea.
While many people shy away from the haggis and blood sausage, they are a must-try as they often taste better than one would expect! You can find fantastic Scottish Breakfasts all over town, and the best, in my opinion, is at Scran and Scallie. This laid-back neighborhood restaurant is a great place for a lazy Saturday or Sunday brunch.
For a quicker morning meal, most locals rely on a bacon or sausage roll. This simple yet tasty sandwich consists of a soft white bread roll with either sausage or bacon.
Customizations: Butter and/or brown sauce can be added. Brown sauce, which is used everywhere in the UK, tastes like a cross between ketchup and A-1. Optional add-ons include a fried egg and/or haggis.
Bread Rolls: Since the rolls are key, my recommendation is to choose a place with fresh white bread rolls.
There are so many places to pick up a bacon or sausage roll, but my favorites are from Phill Potts or Loudins.
Pies and the Famous Desserts
Pies, both savory and sweet, are another delectable Scottish food item done really well in Edinburgh. The shortcrust is thick, and the fillings are always delicious.
I have two favorite places to get pies in Edinburgh:
Piemaker: Great for a grab-and-go option, offering a large variety of handheld pies perfect for a day out.
Thompson’s Bar: An Edinburgh staple for simply the best Steak and Ale pie. This no-fuss pub serves your pie with mushy peas and a good pint of cask ale—you will definitely feel a nap coming on after this lunch!
A post about food in Edinburgh would not be complete without a mention of Sticky Toffee Pudding. This recipe consists of a date-based sponge cake and a rich toffee sauce, typically served with ice cream. You can find these all over Edinburgh, but my favorite is at The Dome. The Dome is an institution in Edinburgh, recognized as one of the city's best, with an award-winning bar and restaurant.
Happy eating!
