Best Places (and Things) to Eat in Edinburgh, Scotland

When most people think of Scotland, food doesn't come to mind as a highlight. It's bagpipes, kilts, castles, and haggis that are synonymous with Scotland. However, after multiple trips, it has grown into one of my top food destinations in the world. Here are a few of my 'top eats' in Edinburgh.

Seafood

The cold waters around Scotland produce some of the best seafood in the world. Inland, trout and salmon still run in the rivers from the icy cold lochs. One of my favorites is langoustines; similar to crayfish but this is the larger cold ocean-dwelling variety. A cross between a shrimp and a lobster, these are simply wonderful. Oysters and muscles and plentiful around Scotland. In my opinion, these bi-valves are some of the best in the world. The cold smoked salmon and haddock are also delicious. Haddock is used for fish and chips here and the salmon is plentiful and always good. The seafood is excellent and these are just a few of my favorites.

Seafood is great in restaurants all over Edinburgh but my favorites are Ship on the Shore and Ondine. The Ship on the Shore is a staple for any Edinburgh visit and features both a cold and a hot seafood platter brimming with the best seafood. Ondine is slightly more upscale and features excellent preparations of the best fish and shellfish from around Scotland.

Meats

Being American I am used to the great streaks available throughout our country and wonderful steakhouses that serve everything from Dry Aged to Waygu and every cut you can imagine. We are spoiled in America when it comes to beef. In Scotland, I rarely eat beef because it is expensive and it never tastes quite the way I like it. This could be because of the different cattle breeds there, the land they graze, or the finishing process used to fatten them up.

However, I do love the venison available in Scotland and I don't eat that in America. Venison in Scotland has almost no 'gamey' taste and it is deliciously tender and juicy. I am told it is because the deer are farmed and fed certain grains to develop the flavor. Lastly, I am not much of a lamb fan, but find the lamb also tastier in Scotland.

For a perfect preparation of meat in Edinburgh, I would recommend two fine dining establishments. Martin Wishart and the Kitchin are both Michelin rated and along with the extraordinary level of service you would expect, the preparation of meat and seafood is prepared well and not overly sauced or fussy. Both these restaurants prepare wonderfully tasting dishes that start with really great ingredients.

Scottish Breakfast

The Scottish Breakfast is quite a plateful and includes eggs, bacon, baked beans, haggis, blood sausage, and a baked tomato serviced with toast and coffee or tea. Most people could do without the haggis (calf or sheep organs and oatmeal) and blood sausage (congealed pigs blood) but they are a must-try as they don't taste like one would think. Edinburgh has Scottish Breakfasts available all over town and the best is at Scran and Scallie. This laid-back neighborhood restaurant is a great place for a lazy Saturday or Sunday brunch.

For a quick breakfast, most people rely on the bacon or sausage roll. Very simple yet very tasty. A soft white bread roll that can include either sausage or bacon. That is it, the basic version can then have added to it butter and/or brown sauce. Brown sauce is hard to describe sort of a cross between ketchup and A-1 that is used everywhere in the UK. Optional add-ons are a fried egg and/or haggis. There are so many places to pick up a bacon or sausage roll so not really a recommendation except make sure they have the fresh white bread roll. My favorites are from Phill Potts or Loudins.

Pies and Desserts

Pies, both savory and sweet, are another delectable food item done really well in Edinburgh. The shortcrust is thick and the fillings are always good. I have two favorite places to get pies in Edinburgh. The first is Piemaker for a grab-and-go. This place has a large variety of pies to pick from and all are handheld versions, making them great for a day out. The second is the Edinburgh staple, Thompsons Bar for simply the best Steak and Ale pie. Not a fussy place, as it technically is a pub. They serve your pie with mushy peas and a good pint of cask ale, you will feel quite a nap coming on after this lunch!

An article about food in Edinburgh (or the whole of the United Kingdom) would not be complete without a mention of Sticky Toffee Pudding. A recipe that consists of a date-based sponge cake and rich toffee sauce served with ice cream. These can be had all over Edinburgh but my favorite is at Dome. Dome is an institution in Edinburgh, with an award-winning bar and restaurant that is recognised as one of the best in the city.

Happy eating!


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